El Chaltén, Argentina: An Epic Three Day Itinerary
If you’re planning a trip to El Chaltén, Argentina, then let me first say: I am jealous. I spend a portion of almost every day since this trip thinking about this trip. It is one of my favorite places on Earth and I’ll bet it becomes one of yours, too.
I’m placing this itinerary under my weekend series, but I use the term “weekend” loosely. I would recommend at least three full days in El Chaltén…and more if you have them. Let’s call this one a Generous Weekend Series itinerary.
Logistics
El Chaltén is in Argentina’s Southern Patagonia. It’s almost as far south as you can get on this continent. If you’re coming into Argentina from abroad, you’re most likely going to get here via Buenos Aires.
To get to El Chaltén, you’ll need to fly into El Calafate (FTE). Non-stop flights depart from AEP and EZE in Buenos Aires and will take about 3 hours.
The best time to visit is during Southern summer, December to February. We went at the end of November and it was perfect. Another great bonus of visiting at this time is the very extended daylight hours. For us, the sun came up at 5:30am and didn’t set until almost 10pm.
Where to Stay
El Chaltén is a very established town with plenty of hostels, Airbnbs, and hotels to choose from. However, if you’re looking for a unique experience, I recommend booking a glamping dome at Chalten Camp.
I was so impressed with Chalten Camp. From the friendly staff, the delicious food, and the jaw-dropping views of Fitz Roy, this one checked all the boxes for me for my Patagonia experience.
It made such an impression on me that I dedicated an entire article to this stay. Read all about it here!
FRIDAY
Take an early flight from Buenos Aires, as early as you can get. You may not love life that morning, but trust me…you’re going to want to spend as much of today as possible in the heaven that is Patagonia.
Land at El Calafate Airport before noon and pick up your rental car. It’s also possible to take a bus or hire a private transfer to El Chaltén, but I prefer the freedom of a rental car for this drive. There are a lot of spots along the way you’re going to want to stop at and enjoy.
*TIP* Make sure to download the map on Google maps for the drive. You’re going to lose cell service almost immediately after leaving the airport.
If you drive straight to El Chaltén, it will take around three hours. It took me closer to five. However, I like to stop at every single photo lookout spot. If you’re somewhere between “drive straight through” and “make a stop every five minutes,” I’d say it’s best for you to budget four hours, minimum, for this drive.
About halfway through the drive, you’ll come to La Leona. Located on iconic Ruta 40, this will be the only stop for you to get refreshments or use the restroom. They offer coffee, tea, and a variety of pastries and empanadas.
For 5,194 km, Ruta 40 runs the entire length of Argentina, parallel to the Andes mountain range. It is THE ultimate road trip. If you’re from the United States, think of it as the equivalent to Route 66. The stretch you’ll navigate today is a beautiful portion to experience. Enjoy it!
You’ll enter Parque Nacional Los Glaciares right before you enter the town of El Chaltén. There is no fee to enter this area of the park. From here, make your way to Chalten Camp for check-in, lunch, and maybe a quick nap. (I recommend snagging one of the camp’s hammocks to relax in!)
Now that you’re a bit rested, it’s time to head to your first hike! This is an easier one to kick things off.
First, head to Chorillo del Salta, a pretty waterfall nearby. There’s a parking lot about 500 meters from the waterfall, which I recommend using if you have a car. If not, you can walk to the area on a defined path from town.
This is a popular spot for people to enjoy a snack and a mate (an Argentinian drink you’ll probably spot people drinking often!). No need to hang out for too long here, but it is a lovely spot to snap a few pictures and admire the waterfall.
From here, head to Mirador De Los Condores. This trailhead can be accessed from the visitor center at the entrance to the town. You’ll find parking here, too. This 4km trail is mainly uphill, but it’s not terribly steep and will take about an hour. At the top, you can sit and enjoy views of Fitz Roy, the town, and spot condors flying overhead. This is a nice spot to enjoy during golden hour light. If you’re up for another couple kilometers, you can follow the signs to Mirador de las Aguilas for views of the steppe, Lago Viedma, and Cerro Huemel. Once you’ve had your fill of viewpoints, head back to Chalten Camp for a delicious three-course dinner and head to bed. Tomorrow will be a big day!
SATURDAY
Today is a day for epic hiking. And you’ve got choices.
*TIP* Because you’ve got two full days in this itinerary reserved for hiking, check the weather and schedule this hike for whatever day looks nicer.
Enjoy breakfast at Chalten Camp, pick up your boxed lunch, and head out. I recommend starting your hike as early as you can as the trails do get crowded.
The most iconic hike in Argentina is Laguna de los Tres. You can start and end this hike at the trailhead in town, but I recommend parking your car at this trailhead and hiring a remis, or driver, to take you out to Hostería El Pilar to start the hike at Senda El Pilar. This ensures you have a different path to the laguna than you will going back to town. It also makes the total hike a little bit shorter.
Logistics for Laguna de los Tres (from El Pilar)
Distance: 20.6km/12.8mi
Time: 7-9 hours
Main points of interest: Piedras Blancas glacier, a beautiful glacial lagoon with Fitz Roy as a stunning backdrop (on a clear day)
Things to Note
- If you have trekking poles, it’s a good idea to use them.
- Most of this hike isn’t terribly difficult. But, the final ascent to the laguna is a burner. You’ll gain 400m in elevation over the last 1km and expect it to take about an hour for this portion alone. Coming back down this kind of elevation is no picnic either (hence the need for trekking poles).
- Once you reach the Poincenot campground, you’ll probably start noticing signs that say the water is potable. I highly recommend you fill up your water bottle straight from the glacial river source! This is probably the best water I’ve tasted in my life and you won’t believe how clean it is.
- It can get really windy and cold at the top. Bring appropriate clothing.
- On your way back to town, follow the signs to Laguna Capri to enjoy Fitz Roy views from another pretty laguna.
An alternative hike you could do today is Laguna Torre. This out-and-back trail is the second most popular day hike in El Chaltén. You could hike this trail tomorrow (if you chose to do Laguna de los Tres today). This is what I ended up doing. I can’t say I fully recommend this plan unless you’re in great physical shape. (I am not, and I was hurting for over a week!)
While this trail is a little easier than Laguna de los Tres, it’s no slouch.
Logistics for Laguna Torre
Distance: 19km/12mi
Time: 7-8 hours
Main points of interest: Maestri glacier, glacial lagoon with the jagged Torre mountain as a backdrop
Things to Note
- I also recommend trekking poles for this hike.
- Start at the trailhead in town, marked on Google maps as “Sendero a la Laguna Torre.” You’ll have to climb up a quick hill before you see the sign to the trailhead though.
- No parking lot at this trailhead, but I did see multiple cars parked off the side of the road.
- Once you get to the laguna, you can find a 2 km trail to the north side of the lagoon that will take you to a lookout point for the Maestri glacier. This trail is very exposed and should only be attempted in optimal weather conditions.
Whichever hike you choose to do today, it’s going to be one hell of a day. If you’re craving a post-hike beer, head back to town and stop into La Zorra Taproom for some craft beers and snacks. Don’t eat too much though because dinner at Chalten Camp is sure to impress!
SUNDAY
If you haven’t gotten up for sunrise yet, I recommend you give it a shot this morning. If you’re staying at Chalten Camp, you might not even have to leave your dome to get this view of Fitz Roy lit up in golden sunrise glow. I know 5:30am is early…but hey, you can go back to sleep for a little while after you admire this view for a few minutes. It’s worth it!
When you are ready to wake up, head to the main dome for breakfast and to pick up today’s boxed lunch.
As I mentioned previously, you could hike another big hike today…if you think your body can handle it! I wasn’t planning on doing two big hikes back-to-back. In fact, when we went to bed the night before, I told Josh, “I feel so dead after Laguna de los Tres. Let’s just explore the town tomorrow.” Instead, I woke up to that sunrise pictured above, with not a single cloud in the sky. I knew we couldn’t skip a day like that on the trails. So, we set out for Laguna Torre.
However, if you’re a sane person, you might want to take it a little easier today. The town of El Chaltén is really quite established for a hiker town. There are many restaurants, shops, and cafes to explore. Don’t miss a stop into Chalteños, especially if you’ve fallen completely in love with the alfajores you’ve been getting with your boxed lunches!
If you want to do an easy hike, especially if you didn’t already see it on your way back from Laguna de los Tres, you can take the easy 8km/5mi hike out to Laguna Capri for laguna and Fitz Roy views.
Another option, if you have a rental car, is to make the one hour drive out to Lago and Glaciar Huemel. I haven’t done this one personally yet, but I hear it’s a nice easy hike for some pretty glacier views.
However you choose to spend today, I think ending it while relaxing in these hammocks back at Chalten Camp isn’t a terrible idea.
From here, enjoy one last dinner and night spent at the Camp.
Tomorrow, you head on to your next adventure…whatever that may be! If you want to check out El Calafate, stay tuned for my next itinerary…
As I write this article and select photos, I’m struck again by how absolutely incredible this area of Patagonia is. I continually catch myself thinking “I can’t believe this place is real. I can’t believe I was here,” as I look at my photos.
I’m really so excited for you to experience the magic of this place for yourself. Please don’t hesitate to reach out if you need help planning your own trip to El Chaltén.
5 Comments
Scott Snodgrass
I was hoping you would do this blog, amazing!
P.s. you can show your pretty face you know.
Carolyn | Wander. Ramble. Roam.
Yay, I’m glad you enjoyed it! And that’s so funny…I realized that all the photos of me for this one were of the back of my head…but figured everyone is here for the mountain views anyway haha!
Tim Roberts
Outstanding !!
The views are all one in a life time , and will stay with you for a lifetime. Thanks for takeing the time to share them .
Carolyn | Wander. Ramble. Roam.
Thanks, Tim! I’m glad you enjoyed the photos. It’s such an amazing place. I hope we’re able to go at least one more time in the next year! *fingers crossed*
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