Eight Days of Rambling Around Northern Spain
Don’t ask me what my favorite country is, as I’ll probably have a different answer for you every week. In fact, I’m so enamored with just about every new place I go, 90% of the time I’m telling Josh, “We should live here someday.” However, if you asked me what’s one of the most significant countries for me, I’d be able to answer that. Spain.
When I was 17 years old, I took my very first trip outside of the United States. I went to Spain with my high school Spanish class and absolutely, irrevocably, undeniably, caught the bug (and I’m not talking COVID *wink*).
Before countries around the world started closing their borders for, understandable, health reasons, I was lucky enough to spend 2 weeks this past January traveling around Spain with my husband and friends. I thought it fitting that the first country for the blog should be the first country that captured my heart and inspired my sense of adventure.
Welcome to my Northern Spain Road Trip Itinerary. This itinerary was made for exploring cities, art, food, road trips, and enotourism (aka, wine tourism). Click on the itinerary image to download the full itinerary now!
With this post, I’ll give you my personal travel tips for this itinerary. Then I’ll do a day-by-day breakdown, meant to be used as a detailed guide to each stop on the itinerary.
Anything marked with *** comes with my highest recommendation! Let’s get started!
Travel Tips
- Travel during the Christmas holidays! I often tell people my favorite time to travel is over the holidays. I love the festive decorations on display and the crowds are usually a little smaller in the colder months of the year (assuming you’re staying in the Northern Hemisphere!).
- For early arrivals into Madrid (particularly if you’re staying in an Airbnb and need to store your luggage), Locker in the City is an excellent service. There are multiple locations with a large amount of lockers in each. Easy to purchase and utilize. Ours was a 2 minute walk from our Airbnb.
- Buy tickets for popular attractions in advance online. Many attractions get very busy and often sell out of tickets, especially during popular travel seasons. I’ll note below which tickets we bought in advance.
- Go to local markets! Especially if you’re staying in an Airbnb. I will make the majority of our breakfasts at the apartment we’re in, both to save time and money. I find there is no better way to experience a culture than through food, and I love using the ingredients and preparing the food just like any other family would in that city. Food really does connect us!
- Rent a car in Spain and experience the countryside. It’s an incredibly beautiful country, with a multitude of various landscapes. Just don’t speed! There are radar detectors everywhere, and even if you don’t see them, they DO see YOU!
- Leave time to wander, ramble, and roam in new cities. I truly believe the best way to see a city is by foot (it’s also why most people who travel with me know to bring good walking shoes and they’re no longer surprised by 8+ mile days!). Try to pick a place to stay that’s in a walkable area, lots of shops, restaurants, markets, etc. that are all available to reach via walking. It definitely helps me get more comfortable when I’m checking into a brand new space.
- Do not, do NOT let “failed” plans ruin your trip. Embrace what’s happening in the present. It’s impossible to plan for everything (weather comes to mind). Embrace the moments you’re in. They may end up more perfect than what you had planned.
Day-to-Day
DAY ONE: Madrid
MUSEO NACIONAL CENTRO DE ARTE REINA SOFIA – This museum hold’s Spain’s 20th century art. Picasso’s Guernica is of particular interest. Book your tickets in advance.
LUNCH: EL MINIBAR – Extensive menu that has something for everyone. Accommodated our group of six easily.
ROYAL PALACE OF MADRID – Official residence of the Spanish royal family. Plan for a few hours here to explore the palace and grounds. Rent an audio guide to learn more about the history and to hear some interesting anecdotes. Book your tickets in advance.
***MERCADO DE SAN MIGUEL*** – A lively market that’s great for grabbing a meal, drinks, and food to prepare for yourself at your Airbnb!
STAY: AIRBNB IN LA LATINA NEIGHBORHOOD IN MADRID – Very central neighborhood, walkable to an abundance of popular sites, restaurants, and shopping. Click here for the full listing for our Madrid Airbnb.
DAY TWO: Madrid
***BREAKFAST: PUM PUM CAFE*** – Fantastic for breakfast or brunch; great coffee, solid choice for vegetarians and meat eaters alike. I personally recommend the spinach shakshuka. Get there early if you can, it’s a popular spot!
***MUSEO NACIONAL DEL PRADO*** – Spain’s most popular museum holding an incredible collection of Spanish artists among other impressive works from around the world. Plan for a few hours here. My personal favorite Spanish pieces are Las Meninas and The Surrender at Breda by Velázquez and The Third of May and The Black Paintings by Goya. Also, the realism of Italian artist Raphael’s Portrait of a Cardinal is truly amazing. Book your tickets in advance.
LUNCH: PLAZA MAYOR – Very central plaza full of dining and shopping options. Easy to find a place to eat here. Don’t skip the churros at Chocolatería San Ginés!
NEW YEAR’S EVE IN MADRID – We happened to time our trip to Madrid to land over NYE. After a delicious charcuterie spread and an abundance of wine at our Airbnb, we headed out around 10:00 pm to make our way to the Puerta del Sol for the countdown, which is essentially treated like NYC’s Times Square.
Well.
We didn’t make it. Here’s where one of my most learned travel lessons came in: It’s impossible to plan for everything. Sometimes, things don’t work out! Despite all my research that told me 2 hours was plenty of time to make it to the square…the lines of people said otherwise. But plans not working out is also kind of the best thing sometimes. Instead, we stood in a line surrounded by people from a variety of countries and I was able to put my minimally conversational Spanish to good use by chatting with the Venezuelan family in front of us.
A fun Spanish tradition is to eat 12 grapes at the stroke of midnight, eating one grape with each “bong” of the clock. The problem is, if you don’t buy your grapes days before, you’re not going to find any fresh grapes. So we discovered a new form of packaging grapes that night: in a can! When midnight hit, we downed our skinless, canned grapes with the thousands of people around us, laughing and yelling out “Feliz Año!” A beautiful welcome to 2020 (and memories that get me through COVID-19 life!). I recommend everyone experience Spanish New Year traditions at least once! Bonus points for canned grapes… 😉
DAY THREE: Madrid
WANDER. RAMBLE. ROAM. – Puerta del Sol is a good starting point (especially if you didn’t make it there for NYE the night before!). I encourage you to walk down random streets, get lost, enjoy the architecture, and (hopefully) the sun on your face. I also love stopping in local cafes, sitting and enjoying a drink, and just observing how people go about living their day. There’s something comforting in noticing how similar it looks to how I live my life at home. It took me a long time and lots of travel to appreciate and learn the art of just slowing down. Savor and enjoy.
***TEMPLO DE DEBOD*** – An Egyptian temple built in the 2nd century BC that was dismantled and brought to Madrid. Recommended as a beautiful spot for sunset looking out over the city.
DINNER: GUSTO’S PLAZA MAYOR – Great location in a beautiful setting. Perfect for groups (we had 8 people). Try one of the paellas!
DAY FOUR: Ribera del Duero & Rioja
Now’s the day things start getting REALLY fun. If you define “fun” by drinking ALL the Spanish reds…which is exactly how I define it 😉 Today, you’re leaving the city behind to start wine tasting your way through northern Spain!
First, let me say, driving through Spain is an INCREDIBLE experience. The landscape changes so much. I think the mountain views were my personal favorite, followed by the vineyard and olive tree views. I can’t express enough how beautiful it is. TIP: If you’re American (and I imagine from other non-Schengen countries) you do have to get an international driver’s license to drive in Spain. Also, just because you don’t see any police, it doesn’t mean your speed isn’t being monitored. Radar detectors are everywhere. The signs aren’t lying. Josh may have had a little bit *too* much fun on these wide, open roads….
***BODEGAS NABAL WINERY TOUR*** – Located in the Ribera del Duero region. Plan for two hours for a tour and wine tasting with tapas. Make your tour reservations in advance.
***CVNE WINERY TOUR*** – A more well-known winery in Haro. you’ve probably seen some of their wines in your local stores.
One of the most interesting parts of this tour was being able to see the wine vault from 1879, where still unopened wines lay…covered in some serious dust and mold! The ideal environment for storing wine also happens to be ideal conditions for mold growth. If you’ve ever wondered what that looks like after 100+ years….
CVNE has some fun tour options, and we opted to do the Imperial tour + Lunch option. Wow. Make sure you have a designated driver, because they are not stingy with the wine here! Also, come hungry because you are going to have a LOT of food! Everything was delicious and we had a private room for our group…allowing us to laugh, talk, and enjoy as loudly as we wanted. Easy to do, with that much wine!
Make your tour reservations in advance.
***STAY: HOTEL CALLE MAYOR IN LOGRONO*** – Exceptionally located boutique hotel, just a short walk from Calle Laurel and the town center attractions. It’s in a historic area of the town, which makes walking around an attraction in itself. Comfortable, clean, and offers a delicious breakfast spread, all for a very reasonable price. Click here to check it out!
Logroño is a quaint town in the middle of the Rioja region, world renowned for wine. If you’re a lover of wine, don’t skip a couple of days exploring the numerous wineries in the area.
DAY FIVE: Rioja
IJALBA WINERY TOUR – A smaller winery with a beautiful tasting room, overlooking the barrel room. Plan for a couple hours to do the full tour and tasting. Make your tour reservations in advance.
MARQUES DE MURRIETA WINE BAR – Beautiful property with a stunning wine bar. Great for a mid-morning stop to enjoy some wine tastings and charcuterie with local meats and cheeses.
CAMPO VIEJO WINERY TOUR – One of the most well known wineries in the region. This winery has the largest barrel room in all of Europe, and what a sight! Rows for seemingly miles of barrels on the bottom, and rows and rows of bottles on the floor above. Heaven! Make your tour reservations in advance.
***DINNER: PINCHOS CRAWL ON CALLE LAUREL*** – Hands down, THE thing you want to do when in Logroño is a pinchos crawl. Think tapas, but these are particular to this northern region in Spain. Some of my favorite spots: Bar Soriano/Bar Angel for stacked mushrooms (el champi), Juan y Pinchame for shrimp and pineapple skewers. I heard great things about Bar Jubera for patatas bravas, but it was impossible to get in when we were there. Calle Laurel is definitely a popular spot for tourists and locals alike!
Tips for eating on Calle Laurel:
- Take cash. It makes the ordering experience at the bar go so much easier.
- Most bars will have a house wine. The house special is actually good wine and will pair great with the specialty pincho.
- Spaniards eat late. If you’re going out for dinner, plan on starting your pincho crawl around 9:00 pm.
Tips for choosing wineries in Rioja:
- Don’t plan more than three tours in a day. You’ll spend a couple hours at each winery and it’s no fun to rush through.
- Try to choose a variety of large and small wineries. It’s fun to see the big productions and recognize names you see at the wine stores at home. But the small, family run wineries have a lot of personal touch to them. I loved being able to see the differences between the two, and learn how production varies between large and small wineries.
- You’re going to be drinking at 10:00 in the morning. You’re on vacation, don’t worry 😉
- Finally, have a designated driver. The tastings are not sips! You will be drinking a lot of wine. There are a lot of drivers and tour companies in the area, so this is a great option for everyone to be able to fully enjoy.
DAY SIX: Zaragoza & Barcelona
***PALACIO DE LA ALJAFERIA*** – This UNESCO World Heritage Site is one of the best examples of Spanish Islamic architecture in Spain. Great place to stop on a drive from Rioja to Barcelona.
During my first visit to Spain, I was struck by the history that’s told through the architecture. You’ll find Roman ruins, surrounded by a palace built during an Islamic dynsasty, whose Arabic writing is then covered by Catholic paintings after conquests by Christian kings. The first time I admired this Spanish Islamic architecture was at the Mosque-Cathedral of Cordoba. The Aljafería is another one of the best preserved examples of this style. Can you spot where the Arabic architecture ends and the medieval, Christian Kings started adding on?
***MERCADO DE LA BOQUERIA*** – A great market for stocking up on local goodies in Barcelona!
STAY: AIRBNB IN THE GOTHIC QUARTER IN BARCELONA – Located right off the main thoroughfare, La Rambla, and is probably one of the most popular neighborhoods in Barcelona. Anything you might need is well within walking distance. Beautiful, historic apartments make for incredible Airbnb options. Ours even came with a gorgeous terrace! Click here for the full listing (if only to see that terrace!).
DAY SEVEN: Penedès
Penedès is about an hour outside of Barcelona and is a wine region that specializes in cava. Definitely schedule some tours in this area! As with planning for Rioja, try to pick some wineries who use different wine making processes.
***RECAREDO WINERY*** – This winery has been in business since 1924, so they know a thing or two about making a good wine. This family run, biodynamic winery (currently in the third generation) is also one of the establishments in Penedès leading the way in the corpinnat style of production. These wines have the distinction of being a higher class of cava, using only organic grapes, manual harvesting, and a minimum of 18 months aging. Another feature of the cava made in this area is they need to be disgorged, meaning the yeast (what gives cava the bubbles) must be removed from the bottle. Recaredo still does this process by hand. My favorite part of this tour was an in person demonstration.
There are no pictures allowed in this winery in an effort to protect intellectual property. Make your tour reservations in advance.
CAVA LLOPART WINE BAR – We skipped the tour here and just enjoyed the tasting room. The winery also has some beautiful views of Montserrat, the mountain dominating the area.
***PARES BALTA WINERY*** – This winery is biodynamic in every sense of the word. They practice organic farming and follow a planting calendar based on the moon cycle. I’m not sure if I’m totally sold on the idea of astrologically based planting methods, but it was interesting to hear about.
Our tour guide was Helena and I remember her name so well because we all loved her! Friendly and knowledgeable, she took us around the vineyards and into the production area. Then, the real fun started. At Parés Baltà, we had reserved the cheese pairing option. With seven tastings! I should also mention here the other three I was with were my husband and his two friends. And they are a bunch of jokers when they all get together 😉 Poor Helena, she had to try to teach us about wine while trying not to laugh the whole time! It was one of the best and most memorable afternoons of the trip, and I would absolutely love to one day return (maybe for the chocolate pairing next time!).
Make your tour reservations in advance.
DAY EIGHT: Barcelona
***PARC GUELL*** – Antoni Gaudí designed this park in the early 1900s, which was opened to the public in 1926. As you walk around, you can clearly see that much of his design creation was rooted in mythology, symbolism, and nature.
Book your tickets in advance for the very first time slot of the morning. Golden hour morning light is beautiful over the park, and you’ll be there before most of the crowd arrives. You also can access a Parc Güell bus which makes getting to the park from the metro station very easy.
***SAGRADA FAMILIA*** – If I could sum up this visit in one word, it would be “WOW.” I know sometimes we want to avoid the “tourist traps” but this church is not to be missed. From the moment you walk up to the church on the street — WOW — to the second your feet hit the floor inside — WOW — all the way up to the top of the Nativity Tower with views over Barcelona — WOW! This is another one of Gaudí’s fantastical creations, and construction on the basilica began in 1882. As you can see from the photos, it’s still under construction! Latest estimates place the completion date to be in 2026.
There are multiple tours to choose from for visiting the Sagrada Família. We chose to add on the Nativity Tower, which afforded excellent views of the city and the Mediterranean Sea. In addition, you can get much closer to some of the ornate carvings on the facade of the building. We chose the Nativity Tower, vs the Passion Tower, as it was the tower that was completed while Gaudí was still alive and working on the project. The inside of the basilica is equally as impressive. The stained glass was unreal, and I loved the way nature inspired the design. For example, the columns supporting the building were created to look like trees, holding up the roof of the basilica.
DEFINITELY book your tickets in advance!
GAUDI WALKING TOUR – Gaudí designed buildings all over Barcelona. Plan some time to wander around the city, through the Gothic Quarter to admire the Cathedral of Barcelona and over to Casa Calvet and Casa Batlló, both designed by Gaudí.
***DINNER: CANETE*** – Higher end tapas restaurant with a focus on fresh, local seafood and produce. It’s a bit on the expensive side, but the food is delicious and they offer an extensive wine list.
And that’s a whirlwind 8 days in Spain! This is by no means an exhaustive list of all the things to do in any of these locations, but I hope it provides a little bit of inspiration and maybe even makes someone think about planning a Spanish road trip in the future 😉
If you have any questions or feedback, please reach out using my contact page in the menu above. Thank you for being here!
